Hat Party

…and mine is the grandest of all.
Brown wool felt tricorne with lace trim, rose hatpin, and feather.
I’ve mentioned my fondness for hats; somewhere at the top of the ‘good hat pyramid’ must rest a) silk top hats, which I can’t really make at home and b) tricornes, which proved surprisingly easy. They were a really good introduction to hand blocking, and I no longer feel intimidated by that whole subject.
Obviously ‘pirate hats’ have been in wider currency generally for a good few years, and it’s an easy shorthand for people who don’t know the word ‘tricorne’. However, since ‘pirate’ style is popular shorthand for ‘male clothing, roughly 18th century’ it can get confusing. And unnecessarily limited. Tricornes weren’t worn only by pirates of course; most use was probably land-based (as everyday wear, and then continuing as ceremonial getup once they became unfashionable) and tbh. since pirates were not in a position to regularly launder, repair, de-louse or otherwise care for their wearables, I prefer not to channel them. So this is a continuation of my ‘vaguely 18th-century, overly fancy, loliable, historical-inspired-ish clothing experiments’.

Oddly I started off blocking with a bicorne, which I actually don’t care for that much. They’re not so publically recognised either, the best you can do for shorthand is ‘Napoleon hat’ (essential asylum wear) which has fewer pleasingly raffish associations.
Anyway, I needed a bicorne for my Fem!WarofAustrianSuccession!MilitaryPrussia cosplay (done before there was an official Nyotalia Prussia depiction, i.e. guesswork so it’s going to have to be considerably tweaked, thankyou…) and I grew quite attached to it. It had to be plain black for sensibleness but with an extravagant red rose hatpin (I crocheted one), and of course some lace (pink and black rose-motif Swiss embroidered net trim, oversprayed in silver), and an extravagant brim for Gilbird to perch on. And there is nothing like striding about in a big daft hat to get your day going. It survived being a perch and a considerable amount of rain without any floppiness.

I was happy with it at the time, but now it looks lacklustre.
Like Urmston, there are two ways to block wool hats; from strip felt (felt being non-woven and therefore shapeable), or base shapes, either hoods (sort of conical), or capelines (with a basic crown and wide brim. Cartwheely). And I couldn’t find these for less than about £24, which is too damn much for this tight-pocketed specimen. Strip felt can work but it’s usually used for smaller, irregular shapes and is monstrously hard to get hold of (working on this). I did have some regular (woven) felted wool stored up to be used for a winter coat, so I tried that. I am quite used to shaping wool for sleeve caps etc. and this is a similar process. It didn’t exactly shape like nonwoven but it assumed an approximation, then I shellacked* the hell out of it when I was satisfied.

However. You are meant to block on a wooden form which absorbs a lot of heat- and steam- related abuse. All I had was my polystyrene head. Polystyrene won’t exactly melt but the head now has a slightly deformed, holey area round the forehead. Hopefully it’s not too visible when I’m getting pictures of it wearing prettypretty headdresses. Also, the head is very slightly smaller than a human one- no hair, after all- and the crown ended up far too shallow. Sort of a perching hat.

This year, for my similarly !WarofAustrianSuccession!MilitaryHungary cosplay, I needed something better. It’s a somewhat buckety hat, but if you put a tricorne on with the straight edge facing rather than a corner, it looks the same. And it’s green, which is my favourite colour if I’m forced to choose.
End result was this:

The difference is: finally finding an affordable supplier for hat shapes! This was blocked from a capeline, obvs. You start off with this great floppy thing and end up with quite a neat hat. I used my polystyrene head again to block the crown and give an approximation of my own (scaldable) head, but you only need to round the capeline crown off a bit and not sculpt it completely, so that’s simple. The brim obviously needs some work, but it’s a regular shape and quite easy to work with. I’m not using an actual brim block for this- I don’t have one, and you can block by hand if you’re sure of what shape you want, so I just ensure all the corners are regular/symmetrical and measure it a lot. I leave it pinned up overnight or until it’s dry, then varnish. I try to get a graceful swept curve to the brim, rather than just a plain triangle, so it follows the shape of the crown a bit more. It’s finished with grosgrain ribbon binding. This one has green ribbon, with fancy gold lace (present from Mandi!) and a gold guipure rose motif. I might trim it up anew once I’ve got some cosplay pictures, but I d’know; it’s quite wearable as-is.

But I needed a dedicated ‘sample’ hat so that I can start selling them.
Here’s the latest: brown with black binding, Cluny lace edging, lacy ribbon and duchesse satin rose hatpin, and feather. My standard hat design will be the lace frill with a detatchable rose, the plume available as an extra; and maybe a plain version for minimalists. I’m looking forward to making an overly-accessorised superfancy black one, though, to show off allll the potential extras.

So far I’ve only worn it with my Alice & the Pirates Lace Print dress, a really obvious coord ‘cos it’s brown and piratey, but I want to incorporate it into some less pirate loli outfits; I suppose the hat makes it pirate loli to some degree, but I’m thinking of pastel-coloured or white ones worn with extravagant winter coats. More ballgown than shipwear.

Also working on some mini ones, ‘cos I *really* want one, but they’re a little more tricky. Will update if there’s any progress there.

*Used for French polishing, various lacquers, and also a good hat varnish. Made from beetle secretions.

London Embuggerance: You Have the Kettle, Make Us Some Tea

“We smashed the place up and Boris set fire to the toilets.” David Cameron, Oxford, 1986

I’ll tell you how it was. For me, at least. That is all I can reliably say.
This will be long and I’m not able to make it much fun, it’s mostly random thoughts in rough chronology.

A summary:
*We were kettled for at least 8 hours with no toilet access, no water, and no way to keep warm.
*We were charged by police horses on at least two separate occasions.
*There was crowd violence.
*There was police violence.
*Things were smashed. 90% of the smashing occurred after containment was started.
*Out of 20000 protesters, only 17 initial arrests.
*No instructions were given, nor any indication of when we would be able to leave.
*I have heard comments from police officers and the media that we were free to leave at any point, if we only followed instructions. This is absolutely false. For most, there was no opportunity to leave.
*We were held on Westminster Bridge for almost two hours. The media apparently did not report this.
*The media reporting is skewed and includes some outright falsehoods. You know that, though.
*Headlines are all about the royal incident. That was absurd, but please ignore it. It is a distraction.
*We lost the vote. But you know that too.

We had gone to the local protest in Birmingham on Wednesday, which was small and felt more like a cheery xmas parade, but it was good to be there. It was clear that people were angry but also optimistic, not a defeatist anger. That’s the right ground-state I think.
Why Birmingham? I’m not a student anymore, obvs. but this is not confined to them. Technically I’m a Warwick groupie but Brum is where I go for fun, and they had a coach down for £5 (organised by Education Activist Network, and funded by trade union members’ donations.) Thanks to them for getting it sorted out.
I have many reasons for feeling moved to protest. You probably can guess at least some of them.
So I get up at half 5, out by half 6 to Hampton-in-Arden (cheap, free parking, pleasant drive), train to New Street, coach at half8 ish. While we’re waiting, man goes past and gives a thumbs-up. I went ‘Buh?’ I’ afraid… apologies, cheerful man, I was just a bit out of it due to morningness.
On the way down there was a lad behind me having officially *the* best conversation I’ve ever overheard on a bus (I have the authority to decree such things, of course)- first he’s on about how he used to think Trotsky was alright but he did advocate revolution after all, and you can’t have that. Then he starts enthusing about Gogol Bordello. Best Subject Progression, Ever.
OK. I have suitably disgusted sign and 6 layers of warmth (extra undies, fleece jumper, 2xsocks, wool coat, ushanka). I have a reading book and a language book, tunes, chicken samosas and a pomegranate. Sketchbook, camera, drawing utensils. I will not be bored.

Get to London about 12 when the march is due to start. As I’m on my own, I try to keep in sight of people who’ll be on the coach back (who were very good for looking out for me btw. although they did not have to). Every time I go to London I have no trouble finding things or getting around, but between visits that knowledge vanishes, so I do not want to get separated. Also you know I don’t have a phone, which admittedly would be useful.
20,000 people are involved.
The march is huge and noisy but sedate and seems cheerful. I don’t notice the police presence until we get to… ooh, a big road, and we are shoved- quite hard, enough to knock you over if you’re wrongfooted- in one direction. Only to face up against a line of more police all gesturing, ‘it’s that way’. That… was the way we were going. Wherefore the shoving?

I think it was at this point we changed routes. What I heard was, they weren’t actually going to let us into Parliament Square at all, so we were going a different way- following the gingerbread man tactics of the previous protest. At one point we seemed to end up at the very front, like being stragglers except the other way round, in front of a linked line of ULU people. I don’t know if they were directing the route, seems likely. We met up with a great many more who were waiting at Trafalgar Sq- after some Running!- then it was back on. Ended up in Parliament Sq probably around 1 (I’m not certain, generous in allowing an hour for the march, but I didn’t think to check the time even though I was right in front of a big clock; the proverbial big clock, even.)
I didn’t see one misspelled sign, apart from mine (but that was on purpose). Some I liked: “Hey Nick Clegg, I found your knife- it’s in my back’ and “Condem- protecting dicks whilst the rest of us get screwed.” “Hi, my name’s Nick Clegg and I promise not to raise tuition fees LOL jk.”
At this point the action consisted of standing about, motions with signs, chanting- nothing specifically agressive, mostly about the cuts, with some anticapitalist slogans. It still felt positive and upbeat. It was clear how many police would be involved, though. At this point we were confined to Great George St. with riot police and barriers all the way down in front of Parliament, and lightweight metal fences keeping us out of the rest of the square. These went down very quickly, and seemed to be a bit of an afterthought. They would not have seriously contained anyone; you could just about shove one over with a rolled-up newspaper. This gave access to the whole square, grass and all, and put us right up against the line of police.

I was about 3 rows back (continually shifting, so sometimes closer, sometimes further). Now, the crowd had become very dense, and I’m only 5’3″ in boots so my view was not comprehensive. I can only tell you what I did see for certain, and what my impressions were- and of course, actions are predicated upon impressions. I cannot dismiss things which I didn’t see, as I do not know- I know that some things being reported are not true, or exaggerated. La, disclaimers.
The crowd was so close together you could not, say, comfortably get a camera out or easily raise/lower your arms. It was not especiall uncomfortable- more than any other unusually close crowd- more like being at a lively gig, but if there was a surge, you could not have stood against it.
It was clear that there was some tolchoking and pushing from the police side. I did not see what that was in response to- proportional or otherwise- although there was a move to lift the barriers and some of the metal fences from earlier were picked up and used as wedges. (I did not see any of these used as missiles, rather than shields or to push through, but could only see the ones directly in front and to the side of me.) Every so often there was a missile thrown, usually a stick or plastic bottle, although there were eggs, and a glass bottle struck someone a couple of rows in front of me. The police were filming and photographing us throughout, resulting in some covered faces. There were some anti-police chants amongst the shouting, although I mostly remember ‘Your job’s next’. A couple of red signal flares- *not* ‘fireworks’- were thrown. References to Ian Tomlinson, and ‘None of you taken your numbers off your shoulders?’
The Mail reported today that they were instructed to take off their flourescent vests because they were too flammable. I don’t know if that is true. One line were always wearing the vests and I never saw any move to take them off; the ones behind, down the smaller side road and everywhere else, weren’t wearing vests at any point that I remember.
Eventually there was a call to turn round and proceed in the other direction. The crowd thinned out in the middle- a couple of people sitting on the side had picnics- but surged towards the other end, where the line of police was thinner but had been shored up with horses by the time we got there. This was coming up to 3 o’clock.
I later read that the horses had ridden through a line of school children who were attempting to prevent kettling.
The police and horses were holding a line, not advancing, and the mood did become considerably uglier with more flares and fences being passed forward. I saw a couple of injured go past. Throughout, the mood within the crowd was co-operative, with no violence towards each other (that I observed). If someone wanted to move in or out, you made room.
I did see one firework (rocket) being thrown. Someone came past from the front covered in paint bomb residue.
This was the first occasion I witnessed of property damage- a lad climbed up and smashed a window on the side of the Guildhall. Behind me, a girl responded “Why did he do that? That’s spoiling it.” A couple of the crowd called out “It’s nothing to do with that building.” It got a few cheers but did not seem to rouse anyone. Later, someone climbed up on the balcony, but all they did was go to and fro and didn’t smash anything.
At one point- I do not know the cause, I speculate that the police were advancing from the front and the crowd was either unable (or did not have room) to move back quickly enough- there was a serious crush, proper off-your-feet can’t move type situation, but it subsided before becoming dangerous. There was a slight panic when somone mistook a flare for a firework about to go off inside the crowd, but there was sufficient room by that point to back away.
It seemed like there was going to be a lull- then we were charged by the police horses.
There was scarcely any time to back away- and nowhere to move to- or assume a more defensive position. They went straight in, direct into a thick crowd, with no warning. The horses had been lined up for a good long while, not seeming about to do anything, and had come through the worst of the disruption. I really cannot understand why they went in at that point. Or where they wanted us to go- up into the air? Sink into the ground? Yes, I was pretty enraged by that. If they wanted us to disperse into the square, they could have advanced slowly giving a clear direction. It seemed out of proportion, illogical and calculated to cause more upset than it would have solved. Although there was violence coming from the crowd, even towards the front it was still composed of mostly non-aggressive protesters.

After they backed off, we could move back into the square and it seemed then that the actual protesting was over. A few lads went past warning ‘They’re trying to kettle you!’ to those further back (in the direction of Parliament) but there was suddenly so much more open space, it seemed a remote threat. The plan was to wait for the result of the vote- meant to be at 5- then move to Embankment and meet the coach, back in Birmingham by about 8.
It was darkening and getting colder, but as the day had been sunny it was not uncomfortable. A few bonfires were lit, not for damage but warmth, and were surrounded by people adding fuel or just enjoying the heat. Few people seemed to know how to build a fire properly, unfortunately, so without paper they soon went out. Not skilled yog-making… there are only so many damp twigs they can sustain. Plinths had been graffiti’d and several statues amended, mostly with banners or bags over the head. Up by the Treasury building, there were two smashed-up phone boxes but no broken windows. Fireworks were lit- not at the police, but in the centre of the square, as at a display. Requisite oohs and aahs followed. There had been music all day, both live (random drumming, someone with a tiny little trumpet) and recorded but it looked like somewhere had been set aside and suitable mood-setting songs were on (Killing In The Name, natürlich). There was no chanting or disruption now- drifting, people sitting in groups, dancing.
Surrounding the square were rows of riot police, one side still with the barriers in front, and all with vans backing them up. Incongruous sight.

So they were kettling us. That wasn’t entirely unexpected, it had been a threat- although it seemed remote at first (kettling having swiftly gone from last resort to standard procedure for protests)- but did make the situation less predictable. My main concern was, I’m due to leave at half 5. If I don’t make that, which seems likely, how will I get home? I had emergency money for trains but I did not want to have to use that. Moreover, I should not have to. But, I still have a book and music and a spare fleece jumper, so it’s not disastrous.
Some people set a Portakabin on fire. That was moronic, mainly because it created noxious black smoke, so thick as to completely block out the clock tower. Someone behind me commented “Don’t do that, you’re just playing into the Daily Mail’s hands.” Too bloody right.
From what I’ve read in the papers, the police were constantly under siege- in truth, most of the lines were open to us, you could go up and chat if you wanted (one corner, where the horses had been, I didn’t go back to so don’t know what it was like there.) Many did. Mostly to ask when they thought we might be let out. From what I saw, they responded pleasantly (with the exception of one who reportedly responded ‘that’s disrespectful’… you’re fecking right it is) but there was an air of ‘we don’t know what’s happening either’. That did not fill me with confidence. I don’t expect them to be superb strategists individually but if they are just *there*, waiting, with no ultimate goal, just making it up as they go along… how can that turn out well? They’d tell you “Go over there, that’s where you’ll be let out.” They didn’t say ‘soon’, granted, but you’d go ‘over there’ only to be told the same thing but with ‘there’ moved. I don’t know if that was disinformation or just a guess on their part, but once again it was not reassuring. It could have caused unnecessary aggravation.
I noticed that the stairs down to Westminster tube were not blocked off. There were barriers underground, but the steps were open and steep, an obvious hazard.
Around then we heard that the street was open because folk had managed to kettle the police. We could get a lot further than had been possible earlier, and an abandoned barrier was visible, but they’d evidently recovered because we were charged again. It was much less crowded here, but you had to step over the knee-high barrier and if you were running or looking back you could easily have gone over.
The vote was at half 5. There wasn’t a spontaneous uprising of outrage at the result (I heard from someone’s mobile, but there was someone with a megaphone nearby broadcasting it), as you might have expected. Perhaps we had anticipated it. It was crushing that we only needed 14 more against, but it’s possible the strength of feeling was what had reduced the government’s majority by such a lot.
Abstaining is an act of absolute cowardice. I wonder how many of those proudly proclaiming their spinelessness in the preceding week had shored up those who weren’t sure whether to vote ‘for’? Or undermined those who’d have gone against?
A bit later I fell over attempting to step over something and lost my group. Someone immediately helped me up. Well, I wouldn’t find them again. So I wander, look at the crowd, see what’s occurring. Getting bored now. Can’t read, it’s too dark, getting too cold to take my hands out of my armpits (where it is forever August, of course). I sit on the kerb and, randomly, a girl asks if I’m alright. I say fine, just having a rest, but I’ve lost the people I was nominally with; she says that a group from Birmingham are up on a ledge on the Treasury and maybe I know them. I don’t, but it’s a better view from there, so I get up. You are helped up when you want to climb, helped down when you want to go. The feeling of co-operation was inspiring.
We hear that the National Gallery has been occupied. I remember actually thinking I hope they don’t trash the paitings. It’s peaceful though, apparently.
This was when the window smashing began in earnest. It was to the left of us and round the corner, and didn’t seem too intense, with only a small group applauding. It got nearer though so everyone who wasn’t up for smashing filtered out when the smashers moved on to the windows next to us. There was a gap down to the lower sub-pavement level of the building, and a group arranged itself at the bottom of the wall helping people down and making sure they avoided the hole. These were total strangers, of course.
I went down to the other end of Great George St and sat by a large group waiting by the police line. There was absolutely no upset or violence here (and not even any chanting). As the Treasury-smashing continued, escalating into battering the doors down with cries of “We want all our money back!”, a group next to me started singing xmas carols. Someone got a window open and pulled out the blind- none of the windows were smashed, but could be opened so evidently they were smashproof but not locked. Odd. There were police inside, of course. I imagine most of the initial arrests were here.
This is what I think is odd. They could have quite easily sent riot police in to stop the attack, pre-emptively even as it began near the corner where there were two fronts of police, one four deep, and easily enough to take out five people. Later, when a group began smashing windows on the Guildhall, they went right in and stopped it. If I were very cynical- which I am as you know, Ted- I’d suspect they were advised to let it happen to make for better copy tomorrow. Like sending a royal vehicle right past people protesting social inequality… hmmm.
There was a big crowd cheering the smashup, but still only about a fifth of the crowd. If that; I never got to see it as a whole, of course. A great proportion were not interested. It was a peculiar atmosphere, as usually watching a thorough wrecking is accompanied by a feeling of menace; this was oddly cosy. There was no indication the smashers would turn on the rest of us. I saw one lad remonstrating with another who was preparing a block of concrete to throw; this is not what this is about, we do not support this, it’s what they want you to do. I don’t know if it had an effect, but I’ve heard there were several occurrances of this.
Sitting on the kerb again, I’m once more asked if I’m ok. Honest, fine, just resting! I put my tunes on. It’s a bit surreal. Some of the ones I’m listening to are good, loud solid to-the-barricades songs, though.
There are occasional scares that the police are advancing, and you’ll see folk start to run, but it didn’t come to anything. Then they do come in- but from the other side, to the left of me, right next to where we are. I get into a doorway with some others so we’re out of the way of the road. That won’t suffice though; they are banging on their shields and shouting MOVE. They push us down the road despite the obstacle of a large crowd in the way, who haven’t got the message yet. Brief crush. I turn down the road to the right and it becomes clear they’re blocking off George Street and surrounding the Treasury.
So I go back to sitting, on a wall this time, and peoplewatch. There’s a news camera and a talking-man, occasionally interviewing people. Someone comes up and wants to be interviewed about ‘police brutality’.
There are two non-riot beat type Met officers inside the kettle. They’re unshielded and although they stick close to the riot lines, wander about a bit. Surely if anyone wanted to attack the police for the sheer hell of it, here was an easy target? No one seemed to take the bait. I saw a couple of people go up and speak with them.
Really cold now. Feet hurt through 2 pairs of socks, hands useless even with gloves. I’ve been wearing the fleece jumper for an hour and it’s not making any difference. Someone has a guitar; I wonder how they made it through undamaged?
I go over to one of the fires (lit in a road, away from any buildings) for extra warmth. It’s tiny though and there are several people so it’s not very effective. I stay for a bit, then notice someone juggling fire over by the front corner, so go and watch. He’s very entertaining. Someone keeps time on a drum.
Round about 9, word goes around that we *might* be let out (this wasn’t an announcement, just passing conversation and everyone drifting). We line up in front of the police facing the bridge. It is peaceful. We’re tired, after all.
We start to move at something past 9. Incredibly slowly, police walking backwards, over Westminster Bridge. It’s a start. Mood is pretty jubilant now that it looks like we’re getting out.
There is the occasional pause, but it looks like we’ll get all the way over the bridge… then, 3/4 of the way across, a complete stop. No explanation. I’m about 6 from the front; I can just see the police. Still fully armed and protected.
The unexplained stop is generally thought to be taking the piss now. We can entertain ourselves- I’ve still got the music on- but feck is it boring and it’s bloody cold and the bridge is only 26 metres wide and there’s thousands of us… are they sorting out how to organise things at the end? They’ve had enough time. I wonder if they knew where they’d be letting us out from, or if it was decided ad hoc.
By this time I will admit to feeling… less than charitable towards the police. No one was ‘protesting’ anymore; no chants, signs down for those of us with sore arms. Tightly packed. Standing still. Yet we cannot go anywhere. Jump into the river? I am feeling like I would shove forward and risk a tolchok to the face if it gave me a chance of getting out. It wouldn’t, individually, but enough of us together, maybe.
What happens is a slow forward surge with shouted instructions to raise your hands as in surrender, and call “THIS IS NOT A RIOT”. This makes it absolutely clear we are not a threat, not up for violence, but do not intend to put up with further enforced containment. That’s sound. We can only get so far as there’s another police van.
We manage to get a good way forward, in sight of the end of the bridge. There’s some kind of huge helicopter overhead; it’s been with us since it got dark, foraging with a great searchlight. It gets waved at, or two fingers, depending on mood. Suspicions that it’s a news helicopter.
A few people try to get everyone to sit down, but there simply isn’t room. A few manage. Three lads next to me start singing ‘The Sound of Silence’, trying to harmonise; they get several of us joining in. Surreal. The mood shifts so quickly: fear, anger, absurdism.
Fellow next to me is on his phone to someone in the Coalition of Resistance. Word spreads that the media, even the BBC, is not covering the containment on the bridge. Someone reads from a phone ‘everyone who wanted to leave was allowed to’, which is such errant bollocks that… well, you know.
Eventually there’s a bit more movement. Van reverses. This might be it. We reach the end of the bridge, then are slowly filtered into an awkward zigzag. I’d thought I could see a few people from the Birmingham coach about 4 people over, and I’d been hoping to reach them, but the new crowd movement makes them vanish. Not ideal. I think by now it might be better to give up on finding them and try and get the train home.
We go right, sideways-ish, then are brought forward, sharp left, and finally funneled out in single file. Single file. Twenty thousand people, one-by-one. Once out, there are lines of police vans and clumps of officers, instructing us not to linger but to go left down the road. Understandable that they don’t want us to linger, but we have no chance to regroup. I’ve lost the coach. Even if it was still around by then, it was on the Embankment, back across the bridge. Train, then.

ETA: Apparently not everyone was kept on the bridge; some say only a couple of thousand. You couldn’t see much behind you so I can’t judge. I’m hearing that some were kept there until 1 in the morning. I wonder what happened to the others?

Waterloo Station is close, so I make it there- although I kno my train goes from Euston- maybe I can buy a ticket there. Inside, I am peered at by a lass with a tall, familiar-ish looking fellow; she says, are you wearing Lolita? Me: yep, but it’s not very well co-ordinated ‘cos I had to keep warm. She recognised the scallops as Baby. So the man she’s with sez, are you going to Bedford by any chance? Well, Bedworth, which is worse than Bedford. Then he asks if I’m in the improv group. Astonishing! He’s Anthony’s brother. He says it’s the best kettle he’s ever been in. Best as in least worst? No, atmosphere-wise. I can see that. They’re to Brighton though, not my direction. Friendly ticket man could only find the expensive train to Birmingham, £13 more than I had, but I could at least get a tube ticket. Four sodding quid! yipe. Cheap train better be cheap.
Tube is surprisingly unmanic. There are seats. Lots of protesters going home, of course, but that meant it was the most interaction among strangers that I’ve ever seen on the tube. Fellow next to me hears lad across the aisle say ‘Finsbury Park’ and comes out with “Big up Finsbury Park!” Amusing.
Anyway, I get to Euston just after half past 11, and the cheap train’s gone. How far can I get for £26? Northampton. Either that or stay in the station all night- I don’t imagine Euston’s more comfortable than Manchester Central, and when I slept there I’d had a full night’s rest previously. I’ll take Northampton. So I have to phone Ben and ask if he can collect me from there (somewhere he knows the way to). He is *beyond* helpful to me.
Home at 2 in the morning.

Officially the kettling began (I gather) at 3 or so, when they brought the horses in. That must have been why the crowd turned in the opposite direction, to prevent it. However, we’d been in the square from at least 1, which was the actual protest, and the police were already surrounding us so I don’t know if it was possible to leave then. We were let off the bridge at around 11-quarter past, but I was relatively near the front- it must have taken at least half an hour to let every single person out. They knew how many people were coming from out of London, and how far, and surely must appreciate that it can be incredibly difficult to arrange backup transport. Especially late at night when you don’t know the place. I suppose those are not valid considerations; we are only noisy plebs from the provinces, after all.
I wonder how many of them personally disagreed with the operation? I have a split attitude to the police at the moment. As individuals they range from pleasant to sadistic; as a force, they are ultimately there to back up the state. And if the state- or at least its leaders- are what you are there to disagree with, they are in opposition to you. I will not treat any individual police officer I meet with contempt. They too will suffer under the cuts, and I will oppose that regardless. I have had recourse to them in the past and in this capacity they were a great help. However, they are required to implement procedures that they might disagree with, and they have little recourse there- it becomes an ‘only following orders’ situation. They cannot strike nor attempt to shape governmental policy in the usual ways; they are a peculiarity in terms of society, being more akin to the Army than other essential services. Consequently I do not feel that I can trust the police force; I can absolutely condemn their policy of kettling, and consider their crowd control procedures to be incoherent and potentially disastrous. I was not there to attack them by any means but I was more than ready to oppose them, and consequently take a walloping, when they forcibly detained me. There was no valid reason for that. I am now hearing police commenters state that we could have gone at any time, that “By this stage at night in Parliament Square/Victoria Street, the protesters should never have been there and so they were effectively breaking their part of the plea.” Apart from the fact that I think you mean ‘agreement’ and not ‘plea’, ossifer, you ignore the reality that we were not permitted to leave. Or perhaps that is what they honestly were told, the reality presented to them. In that case the breakdown in procedure is shocking, and scary.
All indications are that they will continue with this approach. That is disgraceful. There will be more fatalities. It will most likely put some people off, which presumably is the goal. I would go through it again, but probably only in a warmer month. I cannot take that level of cold for so long (I am usually cold where others aren’t, and even wearing so many clothes that I could hardly get my coat on, I was becoming painfully cold). It is probably worse for others in summer though, and I imagine that could be far more dangerous.
I only have a few pictures and they are not very good, but they are on Flickr if you want ‘em.

I read that the candle-lit vigil that the NUS was officially behind was ‘called off’, implication being that this was due to the disruption. My impression at the time was that it sputtered out because no one turned up. Maybe all the candles were stuck inside the kettle.
I was really pleased to see a strong trade union presence at the protests, and it is clear there is a lot of support from them. However, I don’t see it as the unions supporting the students, so much as a united movement involving both. Perhaps the students have revitalised the unions, which was needed, but there is a huge amount of potential influence within them. In the new year, with privatisation of the Post Office threatened, it is possible the TUC will call a general strike.
It is shaping up to be some Interesting Times.

*I can’t take credit for the title, I’m afraid. It was shouted by a clever lass on the bridge. Pretty much summed up how I felt at the time, though.
**It was Molesworthian. it hav a pikture of molesworth I looking miffed, and underneath it sa ‘con-lib? i diskard them’.

A Smidgeon

I was going to have a lovely fancy header here by now. Now I’ve got the scanner back up functioning, the wintry illo I’d done is no longer appropriate, what with the burgeoning greenery; so we’re back to miscellaneous twirly verdure for now.
Working on some new kanzashi though, so pictures ahoy; here’s a peony snippet.

Kanzashi peonies

Kryolan #2: wet

On to the Aquacolors.

Here’s my stack. Not every colour they do, but a representative sample, I think.

So. What are they? Water-based compact make-up, glycerine based, that you use with water. Quite a lot like face-paint. Colours abound- the usual bright matte shades, metallic effects, and also ‘Interferenz’ duochrome colours. Iridescence, I love it! Obviously, I am quite fond of these.

Swatched wet, obvs, on bare skin. From bottom left: red, Interferenz Mozart Pink (rose gold), dayglo/UV pink, Interferenz Strauss Wine (pink/violet), metallic silver-lilac, metallic silver-blue, metallic silver, Interferenz silver-green, Interferenz Verdi Gold (green/gold), Interferenz Bach Blue (blue/green), Interferenz metallic copper, dayglo/UV green, Inteferenz pearl (white/pink/blue-violet).

There are some differences amongst the various types. I’ve labelled them by what it says on the lids; the silver-blue and silver-green are metallic and duochrome respectively, and the former is a simple metallic with no iridescent effect. The other has a pronounced yellow undertone to the green and the metallic effect is just a sheen, rather than a solid silver base. However, the copper shade although classed as a duchrome is a pretty straightforward metalllic copper, albeit a splendid one. Its texture is much smoother than the metallics though; the silver and silver-blue are somewhat lumpy as if they contain actual glitter. (There’s an iridescent silver available also but as yet it is not mine).

The other Interferenz colours obviously have a composer-y theme, and are a really nice blend of two colours each. Looking at their (slightly baffling) online colour chart, they’re various mixtures of green, blue, yellow, and red, but the names aren’t listed (and the pink violet appears to *not* count as a duochrome although it looks just the same.) As you can’t buy from their site though I’ll generally not pay much attention to it. The colours are wonderfully iridescent, nicely mixed so that neither predominates, and have a metallic finish overall. I really like the Mozart Pink as rose gold is such a flattering colour. The Bach Blue looks gorgeous in its container, but it applies a little sheer without layering, so it’s not my favourite to use. The Pearl shade also applies sheer but it’s more of a highlight colour anyway.

I only have the one plain’n'ordinary colour, the red, but it’s excellent; very useful when you don’t feel like fannying about layering red eyeshadow. Grand for lining, too. (There is a UV red available, which I don’t have because it seems like it would just be ‘red’ under daylight; I used to have the UV purple, and until you shone UV at it, it was fairly plain. So unless you are specifically wishing to glow at clubs, the plain colours will suffice.) However, the green and pink UV’s are screamingly bright under normal circumstances and yes they fluoresce like mad when worn out. (I face-paint at clubs occasionally and will sometimes use these to startle people.) They also make a UV orange, yellow, and blue.

I absolutely want to get more o’these; there are several different purple duochromes available, and whilst I wish they made as many greens as they do purples (I’m not a lover of gold, but their Verdi Gold is a wonderful marriage of gold&green), I certainly would like to try them all out.

Application is easy, just wet and apply; some you do need to mix up a bit to get opaque coverage (metallics especially), but they’re easy to layer. Even a primer isn’t essential, as you can paint them on and as long as you leave your eyes closed until they’re dry, they will not crease. Once they’re dry you can alter the effect or spead out the colour by buffing with a big ol’ brush. You could even slather some on without water just using a finger, I suppose. Certainly it wouldn’t harm them, as these are a generous 8ml and last for bloody ever. I found they make a reasonably long-lasting lip colour if you apply over something oily like a creme foundation; useful for odd lip effects, maybe. (I just couldn’t be bothered to look for my red lipstick.)

I bought most of these at the Kryolan shop in San Francisco when I was on holiday, which is certainly worth visiting if you’re in the area. I hope to one day be In the Area again. When I can’t buy them in person though I get them from the same place as the pressed eyeshadows.

Kryolan #1: dry

Time I did a facemuck post. I’ve been swatching loads lately for personal entertainment, to compare colours and such, but without photos; I should start posting them though.

These are the pressed eyeshadows by Kryolan. I don’t have many similar eyeshadows from other companies, whether for lack of interest or idleness or just because I don’t think they’ll compare, or they simply aren’t available in the colours I want. More likely, I already have a particular colour by Kryolan, and am satisfied with it so I’m not looking for substitutes. Secondarily, I’m not much into buying masses of similar stuff and comparing quality; as with artists’ materials, I usually keep even mediocre make-up and learn to incorporate it somehow.

In addition to pressed shadows, they make water-based wet make-up, Aquacolor, which will feature in the next post. There are also loose powder colours available but since they apply and look pretty much the same as minerals, I’ll discuss those all separately.

(First image taken with flash.) Colours are, from bottom left corner: Flamingo, Frambosia glitter, Passion matte, Passion pearl, Violet, Electric Blue, Sky Blue glitter, Serenade pearl, orange glitter, Anthracite pearl, Lime glitter, Apple Green, yellow, red, black glitter, and neon green. Swatched dry over primer. I also have a plain white but it’s evidently been mislaid; basic white matte though, so doesn’t really need picturing.

These are more or less one swipe swatches, which should impress upon you just how damn colourful these are.

Most shades are mattes. I gather that a few colours are available in different finishes, i.e. glitter or pearl, but generally I only have one particular type. They are *excellent* mattes, not a trace of chalkiness or off tones to the colours. They’re supremely easy to blend and build up into stronger colours- although you do not need much as they are extremely pigmented, probably their major selling point- hence good for mixing. They are also nice and spreadable if you want a sheer effect (I often use the pink and red shades as blusher).

The glitter shades are subtle and not overwhelmingly sparkly, with tiny silver specks appearing to float over the colour. There are some texture discrepancies though: the blue, black, and lime glitters are powdery soft and easy to use, but my orange one’s a bit tougher and needs considerably more agitation. I don’t know if that’s an effect of the glitter or whether I just got a bad example; it doesn’t make it hard to use, just not as pleasant as the others. The ‘Frambosia’ colour is really exceptional, an amazing deep hot pink, with the same fine silver sparkles. It shares a slightly gritty texture- more glitter maybe?- with the orange shadow but is much easier to work with. It’s especially striking wet. (However, as it comes in a different container and is labeled ‘Rouge’- as is the blue and yellow (?)- it might not strictly be the same stuff.) The texture of the mattes is all much the same, i.e. lurvely.  The pearl shades have a frosty somewhat metallic finish, but not full-on chrome garishness, and are similarly soft and easy to use. I’m particularly fond of the red, which is a blue-based red and does not skew orange on me (a perennial difficulty I have with reds); Flamingo, which is my go-to sweet lolita eyeshadow colour (wear it with absolutely any light or pastel shade and it looks just darling); and Apple Green, which is just on the line between green and yellow without being a screaming chartreuse.

A couple of mine are broken… this may or may not be due to a guinea-pig related incident in which my box o’Kryolan was flung to the ground, but they’re still perfectly usable if a bit dusty. Given their soft application you’d expect them to be crumbly, but they’re far from fragile and withstand heavy use. That’s good, as they’re pigmented to such a degree you really only need a smidgeon; no repeatedly loading up a brush for minimal colour payoff. Additionally they don’t fade or run, will stay on all night without losing fabulousness and yet wash off easily, and even worn without primer on hideously oily eyelids, creasing is minimal. It is really worth using a good base though to take the colours to extremes.

The one disappointment is the UV green. In comparison to the others it’s ridiculously sheer and a bit clumpy if used wet. It’s not unworkable, and it certainly is UV, but it’s got nothing like the sticking power or brightness of the others. I gather all their UV pressed colours are like this;  unless you specifically want to wear a dayglo wash, skip this and go for the UV Aquacolors.

Colours are fairly true to life in the above images, except the electric blue. I have somewhat odd coloured skin and unless I use a white base everything skews to yellow. This makes the blue look much darker and inky than its true colour, which is close to subtractive primary cyan (i.e shade of blue used in printing). It was this colour I thought would do nicely in a wee experiment. I like the look of the MAC pressed eyeshadow in Electric Eel, and as they’re similar shades I got one to compare. It would either be immeasurably superior to the Kryolan and therefore all the wonders claimed for MAC would be right… or it’d be okay, a perfectly good product but not enough difference to interest me in getting their other colours. Here’s the result:

With flash, then flashless. MAC left, Kryolan right (swatched over a pale creme foundation). Soo… they’re not identical, but such similar shades that it probably wouldn’t be noticeable if you wore one on one eyelid, and one on the other. The MAC claims to be satin and ‘flecked with shimmer’, but looks matte to me. There’s maybe a tiny gleam in very bright light. It’s a slightly lighter/brighter blue, perhaps a touch more green. It applies quite a bit differently though; it’s well pigmented, certainly, but I had to use quite a bit more to build up the colour intensity. Ultimately, it’s really not going to sway me. Part of that is my being a tight git; this is the refill version, £8 for 1.5g, versus around £5/3.5g for Kryolan- but mainly I do not see enough difference. That isn’t to make a big thing of the direness of MAC, of course, but all their colours that appeal to me, I already have. Hence I’m not about to shellout for their versions to end up with products so similar I can’t casually tell them apart.

I get my Krolan from Shrinkle via eBay. I’ve a couple from the Charles Fox shop in Covent Garden, but I’m rarely in London and honestly would not go there just to buy make-up. Price is about the same from both, IIRC, taking intl. postage into account.

Tra-la-la! Anyway, that’s my first swatching post done… doubtless I’ll get more entertaining with practise.

<img src=”kryolanswatch1″>

Just Before ’10

I don’t feel too New-Yearsy on actual New Year. I get it a bit earlier, when I notice the days lenghtening; and generally I do notice because I am looking out for it. I do not get SAD, thankfully, save the general shut-in feeling from being confined to the house (more specifically confined to the vicinity of radiators) because of the cold, but returning daylight makes me brighter. So by actual New Year’s I have had all the ‘woo, shiny new year!’ feelings. (Then I sort of lose it because it refuses to warm up until, say, March at *least*, and I hibernate til Spring.)

I think I have an actual New Year’s party to go though, for extra ‘woo’.

So, New Year. I’d talk about the Xmas but that’s sort of last year, i.e now, and I want to keep the blog concurrent and non-temporarily-confusing, so I won’t. I’ve not written much here ‘cos I was planning stuff for it. I mean to open it up a bit as I have blogworthy things that aren’t work, or even to do with making stuff. Imagine!

* There will be clothes, both lolita and other daft styles. I’ve a lot of new own-brand stuff and a good amount of brand waiting to be all worn and tried out, so I can discuss that.

*If I improve my (at present rather dismal) kitsuke, I’ll put up some of that too. I didn’t really improve in practice this year, but I did get a lot of the myriad accessories you need to wear kimono but which are not seen (50% DIY, ‘cos it’s easy to make koshihimo and obi-ita out of stuff you have around the house- or, stuff *I* have around the house, which might not be generally applicable). I have about the full set now. I’ve a lot of pretty kimono stuff, it deserves at least to be photographed.

*I’ve been thinking loads (and reading loads- i.e. ‘research’) about colours and colour theory. Mainly ‘cos I am learning about pigments and such. I have a scattergun approach to science; I can’t sit down and take it on straight, but can absorb it obliquely. So I am looking at, say, a peacock feather, and considering what makes it coloured, and thus I can learn about light reflection and structural iridescence. And other jolly things. There is a purpose to this, promise.

*I’ve become far more interested in facemuck, i.e. cosmetic stuff, not because I have any disfiguring scars (which I do, but they don’t impinge) but because they is fun. Short version- I discovered Fyrinnae and thence other mineral-ish places, and apart from the entertainment you can get out of colouring your own face in, the colours are so covetable on their own. Anyway I now have a huge draft of loose eyeshadows to go with the basic bright stuff I had before (and continue to use), and I’ve become quite interested in how it is done. Because there’s nothing that should not be reduced to ‘do it your bloody self’, I think. So I will be reviewing stuff I’ve used, detailing stuff I’ve concocted at home (successful OR disastrous), and if I can produce decent photos, illustrate it. This relates to the colour theory gubbins also.

*I also got  a Wacom, so I can finally meld actual illustration with computer polishing without the godawful laboriousness of printing and drawing-in. I daresay I will miss it, in the same way that folk missed gas-lighting and firedamp.

*I’ve a newish guinea pig who is extremely characterful, and it’s been suggested he would be a good mascot for something. So, perhaps, cute animal pictures will abound also.

That’s all, currently.

A Boxful of M’s

The postman woke me up yesterday to deliver a boxful of pleasantries. I’m glad he knocked when he did, as I was having a really stupid dream.

It was a delivery of two new lolifrocks, one by Moitie and one Mary Magdalene. So, altogether- mmm!

Mary Magdalene Rose Card red dress

I think the Mary Magdalene dress is called ‘Rose Card one-piece’, or Card Rose. Or perhaps Rard Cose but that’s less likely. Anyway, it’s one I saw years ago when they were a bit obscure, and before I was going to their site, so I didn’t save any pictures. It caught my attention though. Particularly in this colourway, red with dusky pink. I don’t have that much red although I am fond of it, particularly for classic styles. Mary Magdalene does some delicious jewel tone colours as well as the usual pastels which classic loli brands seem to favour for summer.

The fabric is a custom print, of course (possibly used by other brands- this happens not infrequently, but I haven’t noticed it turn up so far), but much lighter than usual, about the same as a quilt-weight cotton. In fact pretty much identical to quilting cotton, which bodes well for replicas (I am sure there are similar-looking prints made for the quilting market. They get all the good stuff!) It’s fully-lined, as you’d expect, but pleasingly the lining is a very light cotton, almost a lawn, rather than the usual clingy synthetics. That’s excellent because it will be 100% breathable, and it is obviously a summer dress- nothing puts me off climbing into brand on a hot day than the thought of icky static lining all bunched up in your drawers. So to speak… anyway, many points for the canny Mary Magdalene designers who thought that up.

rosecard2rosecard1rosecard3rosecard4

The lining is edged with a dotted mesh ruffle which underhangs the outer hem, a cute feature. Also appreciated is the blind hemming used on the outer layer! Wish they were more frequent. Lining is also topstitched down at the sides of the zip. It’s a side zip, which I much prefer over centre-back ones, as they’re easier to pull up and more invisible. I suppose a centre-back zip has the advantage of being a straighter seam, but I’m not sold on them. Here’s why I don’t use zips in my own stuff: generally I am impetuous, and do not plan a design for weeks before making it. You can’t hoard zips like you can elastic or suitable buttons. I’d have to go in person with samples to match the right colour of zip, and find the exact length, and that’d mean more frequent trips to town which is horrible. So if I am jonesing to finish an item, I will almost always side with adjustable fastenings instead.

So now you know. Oh, the secrets!

The actual structure of the dress is interesting, basically a fitted panel cut up to an Empire bustline, with about 2/3 of the skirt taken up with a pleated tier. The pleats are quite subtle; they don’t overwhelm the print, and sort of hide amongst it until you move, when they open out into a very full skirt. Good stuff. Petticoat was a bit feeble when I took the above picture, and didn’t give the best support. I’ll get more when it’s been restored in the wash.

I was anticipating a slight fitting problem, as MM is thought to run small, but this is just about perfect. One feature I am grateful for is the functional back lacing (only covers the waist area but is not just decorative), which enables quite a bit of extra width when you’re putting on the dress, then can be cinched down. Sometimes I find brand-sized dresses and tops a little loose in the waist, which is odd since I’m about at the upper end of what they can accommodate. Anyway, this enables it to be sized perfectly, and just confirms my commitment to adjustable lacing. Spread the love! The front has lacing too, but it’s just for looks. Not much lace on this one, a bit of scalloped Cluny type trim for the lacing, and that classic-loli-furniture-braid at the neckline. (No disrespect intended to the braid, just what it reminds me of.) Also includes two detatchable bow pins which I will not remove, because I am bound to leave them somewhere.

All in all, one extremely pleasing dress. Features like the summer-weight lining and invisible hem make it seem extra special, more attention to detail and less designed-by-committee.

Moi-Meme-Moitie Ladder Lace bxw sundress

Secondly, this Ladder Lace Sundress by Moi-Meme-Moitie. Wayback machine dates it to June 2004 but the original page is not archived, so I can’t actually tell if it’s black or blue. Seller said blue. I say black, but it looks a little off in daylight… still, not blue enough to be reminiscent of school uniforms, for which I am grateful.

I do think you have to be a proper EGL to carry off a lot of Moitie. And I am not a proper EGL, main reason being that I don’t wear/own a lot of Moitie, and that because I am too untidy for it. Not that there’s a law, but the severe neatness of a lot of the designs make me feel that I would always have to be on my best behaviour. I think of them as very posh, job interview type clothes. I shed hair, my socks frequently fall down, and I stumble over small obstacles; no, Moitie’s not for the likes of me. There’s also the cost of course. I don’t like Moitie enough to pay the kind of prices you have to pay to compete with those who do like it an awful lot. I mean I’d love an Iron Gate skirt but there are people who’d just about cash in their life insurance for one, and I can’t go up against that. So I get the also-rans.

I don’t mind actually, as I particularly like this dress. It is plain and unfussy without being strict, or looking like something your mum picked out for you to wear. I was missing a simple bxw dress, something you could wear without hours of ironing, or without a blouse. Yep, shrugs are the thing in this weather. Since it is called a ‘sundress’ and has fancy straps, which a blouse would detract from, I’m concurring that it’s meant to be best worn unbloused. Perhaps I’ll wear this on the ferry (I am on holiday in, oh, 10 days, which is why I have a lot of clothes deliveries).

It is a very Gothic-feeling dress and it makes a nice change sometimes to get back to the pared-down, plain style of Lolita. Black and white lace is great but when you’re out in it you don’t feel like you could be relied upon to scare small children.

I love the lace. It’s a custom design with the Moitie swirly candelabra logo, stitched in white on black cotton and threaded with black ribbon. There are a lot of bows on this dress and I am generally in favour of bows but I wish they were sewn down. Because I am like, bow repellant. They see me coming and uncurl. Moitie often wins in terms of custom prints and lace, and this is a really effective design. Particularly the subtle white-on-black pattern, much more striking I think than white lace would have been.

sundress1sundress2

Other than liking how it looks, though, it’s fairly standard. Centre-back zip (grr), sewn-in waist ribbon, double-folded hem, fully-lined but with synthetics. No inner net layer, though. I know they’re sort of an extra but to be honest I do not like them; they get out of shape so quickly and make skirts more awkward to iron. (Although perhaps it originally came with a separate mini-petticoat, I do not know. Again I think I’d rather do without. I am a great believer in the cotton petticoat for all seasons, and I don’t go near net ones in the summer.) Innocent World, which I consider to be towards the higher end quality-wise (Moitie being considered top of the heap), also dispenses with net layers on the whole. It might be that these more subtle brands want their wearers to look less like strolling fairy cakes, but it might be that I is rite and net layers are a bugger. We’ll see.

Construction seems fairly standard, then. That isn’t a criticism because fairly standard=good, it just contains no surprises. I still am not sure what all the hoop-la is over Moitie, but maybe you have to be a tidy girl.

Fit is nice, it’s a size 2 for what it’s worth. There seems to be a little more shaping in the bust than usual (maybe Mana stuffs his cups?), nice, because one does not want to be squished in the summer months.

It came with quite a bit of extra stuff. It’s nice when sellers chuck stuff in for free, even if the items are sometimes a little random; this one sent a lace garter belt (?) a handmade headdress, and a whole Moitie blouse. That was kind of a coup, but evidently the previous owner wasn’t happy with it and had done some snipping around the collar. None too carefully- there are holes. Also it is EGA and unfitted, and although it has an interesting drapey collar and cuffs it isn’t really my style at all. I’m not an EGA or unfitted-blouse type. Plus, and this is disappointing, it is composed wholly of polyester, and I am on a cotton-only diet until autumn. (Must breathe!) So I will probably sell it, or repair and sell it. I don’t know what the bit that was snipped off looks like, as Wayback Machine cannot find the original, but in any case it is under the collar fall so it does not show when worn. But at least I got a free Moitie blouse to examine, and that can’t be all bad. Every day is a schoolday.

Writings ahoy

Best start with something, eh?

Not going to put an ‘about me’ here, but maybe an ‘about blog’.  This is a journal about work, because I reckon I can make my work interesting. I sew things. Also I craft things, embroider, knit, crochet, millinerise (there’s a new word!), and fold countless tiny silk petals. All this can be considered work.

In short, if I want to wear something and do not have it, I will find out how to make it. Except shoes.

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